I have a Jiffy Pro4 auger.  The power and reliability of this auger is amazing!  But!  I always have a plan B.  I evaluated several hand augers on the market.  The majority of them have a 6″ diameter auger.  My Jiffy Pro4 auger bores an 8″ diameter hole through the ice.  I chose the BassPro Shops hand ice auger because of its 8″ diameter auger.  Why compromise?

The auger has a two piece design, which makes it very portable.  The razor-sharp machined stainless steel blades cut through hard ice like a hot knife through butter: effortlessly.  The plastic blade cover protects the blades and your gear from damage.  Bottom line, the BassPro Shops hand ice auger is a high performance machine at a low cost.

I purchased a pair of Korkers Wraptr Boots as a backup pair of studded boots.  After my field testing, they are now my primary pair!

The Korkers Wraptr Boots comes with two interchangeable soles; these are great for freshwater.  For surfcasting, I purchased the OmniTrax v3.0 Triple Threat Soles.  Having a single pair of boots that I can use for multiple applications is fishconomic!

A common practice in the Surfcasting community is to screw studs onto the soles of wading boots.  This provides great traction control; but it has a potential problem: pressure points.  The Korkers Wraptr Boots solves this problem.  Each OmniTrax v3.0 Triple Threat Sole has 15 carbide spikes secure to it.  The sole is then snapped into the boot, which has a thick sub-sole.  Two soles.  No pressure points.

I field tested the boots on the rocks of Cuttyhunk during a two night commando trip.  Even the dry rocks on Cuttyhunk are slippery.  The ones with sea weed dread locks are impossible to stand on without studded boots.  I never lost my footing; not even when the waves were crashing on my chest with a determination to set me a drift.  My feet never felt pain.  I was able to fish longer and harder than my previous commando trip.

Bottom line, the Korkers Wraptr Boots and the OmniTrax v3.0 Triple Threat Soles provide maximum traction and comfort without pain from pressure points.  I would only recommend spraying the metal component with WD40 after each trip in the surf; they are not saltwater grade. 🙁

I first saw High Hook Lures at a Plum Island Surfcasters fishing show.  Mike Mullen showed me the “Biggie”.  I had never seen a 15″ long plug before.  I had to have one!

During this past June’s new moon, I was on the porch of Pete’s Place on Cuttyhunk Island rigging up for my next trip when I saw Mike Mullen.  OMG.  Total coincidence!  I showed Mike the first generation of my DIY Side Arm for the Biggie and B1.  The conversation quickly shifted to tides, plugs, and fish.  He asked me: “Have you caught anything on the B1 yet?”  I said, “I am fishing it for the first time tonight!”

Latter that night, I was standing on a rock under the black blanket of night when I noticed a shadowy figure on the rock just to my left casting a really big plug.  I yelled out: “Mike….is that you?”.  Mike shook his head to confirm and kept casting.  OMG.  Total coincidence!  I pulled out my blurple B1 out of my first generation DIY Side Arm and began fan casting the small section of open water in front of me (from 11 O’Clock to 1 O’Clock).  I got bumps on every other cast.  I then made a long cast right down the middle (at 12 O’Clock)…fish on!

The fish fully arched my 11′ 2 – 8 oz St. Croix Mojo Surf Rod. The fish pulled line off my ZeeBaas reel faster than I could reel it in.  Without warning, the fish stopped.  I could not move it. The fish then began swimming left towards Mike’s rock.  Our lines got crossed.  Mike removed his line off his reel’s roller.  I finally got the fish to my rock.  I quickly grabbed the fish with my free right hand and hoisted her out of the water.  Mike’s line was wrapped around the fish and my blurple B1 plug.  I turned my back to the surf and started the unhooking operation.  My back broke the waves as I successfully unraveled Mike’s line from the fish.  I could not remove his line off my B1 plug.  I yelled to Mike “I have to cut your line…I do not want to kill the fish”.  He shook his head in confirmation.  I cut his line and removed my blurple B1 plug from the fish.  I skipped weighing and measuring the exhausted fish.  As I revived the fish, I could see and feel that she was built for speed!

Bottom line, I owe Mike a spool of 50# braided line.  That’s true.  But! More importantly, High Hook Lures are high quality, fish catching plugs.  In addition to the Biggie (15″, 3.2 oz) and B1 (15″, 4.4 oz), Mike also turns other needlefish plugs: Dinner Catcher, Lil’ Brother, Needlefish – Sinker, and Needlefish – Floater.  All of his plugs are constructed with stainless steel through wire, Spro swivels, Wolverine split rings, and VMC hooks.

While fishing the surf one night, sand penetrated the gap between the rotating head and the main chamber of my flashlight.  When I rotated the head to turn on the light: snap!  Terribly inconvenient. :-(.  The next day I ordered a StreamLight 2AA Propolymer Haz-Lo flash light.  I have had light ever since. 😉

The StreamLight 2AA Propolymer Haz-Lo flash light has several features.  First, it’s made from impact resistant polymer.  Second, it has an awesome power to weight ration: 65 lumes to 3.6 oz.  Third, its waterproof down to one meter. Forth, no sand intrusion!  A nd lastly, my favorite feature: the push button tail cap switch— which allows me to turn my flash light on and off with one hand.  My other hand it typically holding a fish, a plug, or a fish with a plug.

The StreamLight 2AA Propolymer Haz-Lo flash light is durable, bright, and light.  I never go surfcasting without two of these flash lights.  If the batteries go flat on one, I use the other.  Replacing batteries takes time.  Time is fish!

I field tested the Al Gags Rattle Head 5oz Whip-It Fish during the July full moon.  The first cast went far further than I expected for a plastic paddle tail swimmer.  On the second cast, I could feel it swim close to bottom.  By the third cast, a fish engulfed it!  My heavy action 11′ St. Croix Mojo Surf rod was fully arched into a perfect parabola.  My ZeeBaas ZX2-27 helped me hold my ground during my tug-of-war with the fish.  On two occasions I could not move the fish and the fish did no gain any line.  The more stubborn animal won.

The Rattle Head 5oz Whip-It Fish has several features that differentiates it from pedestrian plastic paddle tail swimmers.  First, it has Greg Myerson’s World Record Striper Company rattle, which is a fish attractant.  Second, it has a 9/0 Tuna Strong hook.  That’s not a typo: 9/0.  Third, the unique jig head geometry allows it to penetrate the air and water, which contributes to country-mile casting and a seductive swimming action.

As surfcasters we tend to fish proven patterns like fishing the new moon with the same plugs tide in and tide out.  This year I decided to fish new patterns and new plugs.  I am over the moon that I fished the Rattle Head 5oz Whip-It Fish during the full moon!! 😉

The Gary Yamamoto Senko is a vertical presentation that seduces big and small fish into striking.  These salt-infused soft plastics are made in Arizona and come in a variety of colors (120) and sizes (3″, 4″, 5″, 6″, and 7″).  I select colors based on water clarity and local bait fish.  Size selection is complex.

Traditional theory states: big bait = big fish.  Based on my recent trips in my fishing journal, there is no direct correlation between Senko size and fish size.  I have caught small fish on large Senkos.  I have caught big fish on small Senkos.  In fact, on a recent trip, a big fish hit my 4″ Senko like a freight train and brook my x-mart rod during the fight.  I landed the rod tip and the fish.  Therefore, I do not select the size of my Senko based on fish size.

Water depth is the first thing that I take into account when selecting the size of my Senko.  Sink rate increases with increasing Senko length.  A 7″ Senko will sink faster than a 3″ Senko through the same water column.  In shallow water, a 7″ Senko will sink too fast.  In deep water, a 3″ Senko will sink too slow.  Therefore, as water depth increases, I use increasingly larger Senkos to achieve an optimal sink rate through the water column.

Vegetation is the second thing that I take into account when selecting the size of my Senko.  A 3″ Senko will take a long time to reach bottom in weedy water (if at all).  A 7″ Senko will reach bottom in weedy water (just at a slower rate than in clear water).  Therefore, in weedy water I use larger Senkos because their increased mass helps them flutter their way to bottom.

The Gary Yamamoto Senko is available in 720 different size and color combinations.  Therefore, I can match any local bait fish in any water column, with and without weeds.  I will continue to fish Senkos, big and small, with a new St. Croix rod.  Fish beware! 😉

Big bait = Big Fish. This simple formula holds true for all species all over the world. When fishing big water, big metals reach fish down deep. Rigging big metals is challenging. You can tie direct, but then you have to re-tie for every lure exchange. For fast exchanges I exploit specialized techniques.

The first method is the simplest and fastest. Secure a number 10+ heavy duty split ring on the metal via split ring pliers. Then slip on a 310 lb Kork barrel swivel onto the split ring.

The second method uses a clip and a swivel. I slip on 310 lb Kork barrel swivel on to a 175 lb Tactical Anglers power clip. Then patiently and carefully slip the big metal onto the clip. This operation takes time.

The third method takes a little more time to rig, but provides the strongest connection. Cut a 12″ length of 200 lb Ande monofilament line. Pass one end through the metal and crimp a 1.7 mm aluminum sleeve. Pass the other end through a 310 lb barrel Kork swivel and crimp a 1.7 mm aluminum sleeve

When targeting big fish in big water, I pull out my big metals. I exploit these rigging methods because they allow me to change up my big metals as quickly as plugs. Time is fish.

When I first got into Kayak Fishing, I was overwhelmed with all the “stuff” that can be used for kayak fishing.  What I have learned over the years is that do not need bring everything on every trip.  I bring what I need for the specifies I am targeting, the water I am fishing, and the time of year that I am fishing.  All of my gear is organized and ready to go.  I print up my Kayak Fishing Check List and cross out the items that I will not need on my trip and check off the items as I load them into my Suburban.  Time is fish! 😉

General Gear

1. Kayak
2. Cart
3. Paddle
4. Seat
5. Crate
6. Rods / Reels
7. Pole Anchor
8. Drop Anchor
9. Rod Holders
10. One Gallon Zip Lock Bag (for trash)
11. Digital Camera (Fully Charged)

Safety Stuff

1. PFD (a.k.a. “Life Vest”)
2. Float Plan
3. Flare Gun
4. Pea-less Whistle
5. Air Horn
6. Plastic Mirror
7. First Aid Kit
8. Sunscreen
9. Bug Spray
10. Submersible VHF Radio vith GPS (Fully Charged)
11. Safety Flag with Light
12. Knife
13. Compass
14. Hydration (e.g. Water, Gatorade, Poweraid)
15. Food (e.g. Protein Bar, 5HR Engery)
16. Step-Rope
17. Throw Rope
18. Hand Bilge Pump
19. Head Lamp
20. Laminated Chart of Area
21. Wrist Watch

Outerware (depending on weather)

1. Paddling Gloves
2. Dry Top
3. Dry Pants
4. Dry Gloves
5. Dry Suit
6. Booties
7. Water Shoes
8. Wetsox

Fishy Stuff

1. Rods/Reels
2. Leaders / Rigs
3. Plyers
4. Lip Gripper
5. Scale
6. Net
7. Bait
8. Lures
9. Lure Retriever
10. Rod Holders
11. Fisher Finder / Chart Plotter (with fully charged battery)

Last season I took some friends surfcasting.  We were fishing chunks on my custom fish finder rigs.  With our rods fully loaded, my custom fish finder rigs out-casted traditional fish finder rigs.  They also caught fish.  Mysteriously, the plastic sinker sliders kept breaking!

I now use Sea Striker Sinker Sliders (model number: BFS-6P5).  These sinker sliders are made with a strong and hard plastic.  They also have thick walls for added strength and abrasion resistance.

Your rig is only as good as it weakest component.  The Sea Striker Sinker Slider is strong.  They cost more than pedestrian sinker sliders.  But!  The additional cost is pence compared to lost sinkers. 😉

Dropper loops at great for teaser rigs and for chunking rigs. The easiest way to tie a dropper loop is by using a jig; for example, the Fish360 Dropper Loop Jig. 😉

STEP 1
Wrap the line around the two bottom pegs; then around one of the top pegs; and then back around the two bottom pegs. Secure the tag end on the clip. In effect, you have formed a triangle.

STEP 2
Using your two hands, wrap the two lines between the top bottom pegs until you can only fit the tip of your finger between them.

STEP 3
Remove the loop from the top peg and pass it through the gap between the two twisted lines on the bottom. Secure the loop back on the top peg and tighten the knot.