I first met Charles Carlow from Linesider69 Custom Plugs at the New England Saltwater Fishing Show. He stopped by my booth and showed one of his plugs. I have been hooked on his plugs ever since.

Charles Carlow is a prolific plug builder who has been building plugs for 15+ years. He has 40 different plug models that are available in 2 or 3 sizes. He paints his wooden plugs in standard and custom colors. Charles Carlow has round, off-set, and carved plugs. He has done for offset plugs what John Haberek did for needlefish.

Each plug model goes through an extensive design and testing phase. During the construction phase, Charles Carlow uses templates to ensure that all his plugs are crafted consistently. Because wood is a natural porous product, he keeps his workshop at less than 20% humidity at all times. After he paints his plugs, he coats them with a two-part epoxy/resin mixture for maximum durability. All of his plugs are assembled with quality hardware: stainless steel thru-wire, stainless steel swivels, Rasco split rings, and VMC hooks.

The design, color, construction, and action of the Linesider69 plugs attract a variety of fish. For example, a 53″ striped bass was hooked and landed a Linesider69 plug. A 200 lb class blue fin tuna engulfed a Linesider69 popper; the line could not hold the fish as it raced towards the Azores. White perch, yellow perch, large mouth bass, small mouth bass, pickerel, northern pike, rainbow trout, brook trout, brown trout, bluefish, yellow fin tuna, jack crevelle, and sea robin have also been landed on Linesider69 plugs.

I fish Linesider69 plugs because they are well designed, tested, and built with a consistent action. With 40 different plug models in various sizes that can hook multiple saltwater and freshwater species, Linesider69 has a plug for you! 😉

I use braided line almost exclusively while fishing open water.  For jigging through the ice, I have always used mono-filament line.  Last season, I decided to re-spool my ice jigging reel with Berkley Fireline Crystal Ice line.

On the trips that I have jigged with monofilament line, I caught fish.  But, on my first trip with the Berkley Fireline Crystal Ice line, I caught more fish than all my previous trips combined!  The Berkley Fireline Crystal Ice line is so sensitive, that if a fish sneezes on my jig, I’ll know.

I am not sure why it took me so long to switch from monofilament line to braided line for ice jigging. But, one thing is certain: all my ice jigging reels will be spooled with Berkley Fireline Crystal Ice line during the up coming season!

I have a great pair of lace-up ice fishing boats.  They are rugged, warm, and comfortable.  During an ice fishing tournament with 12+ inches of slush, water started leak into my boots after an hour.  I now use Muck Arctic Pro boots!

Muck boots are made from a flex-foam material in a continuous and non-interrupted design.  There are no openings for water to penetrate.  They are hence 100% waterproof from top to bottom.  The soles have groves that provide traction and stability in snow or slush.  They are easy to put on and take off (no laces).  They are also light, comfortable, and easy to clean.  Their thermal rating is impressive: -40 degrees Fahrenheit.  Bottom line, for ice fishing there is no substitute for Muck Arctic Pro boots.

Modern textile technology has given rise to some purpose-specific fabrics with features like: wind-proof, breathable, wrinkle free, moisture wicking, scent block, and SPF.  As anglers, we now have performance clothing that allows us to fish longer and under a variety of conditions. I exploit high performance clothing while fishing.  But!  For me, there is no replacement for the warmth and comfort of my wool sweater during extreme cold conditions.

I have several wool sweaters from Ireland that I wear while ice fishing and open water fishing in early spring and late fall.  The primary advantage that wool has over modern fabrics is that it’s the only material that will keep you warm when wet.  When in doubt, fish with wool. 😉

Metals (a.k.a. “tins”) are under-utilized by surfcasters. For deep water and wind-in-your-face conditions, I pull out the heavy metal.

My go-to heavy metals are: Kastmaster (3 or 4 oz), Deadly Dicks (3, 4, or 5 oz), Crippled Herring (3, 4, or 5 oz), and Hopkins (3, 4, or 5 oz). These metals are available in various colors and finishes. I like chrome, chrome/blue, chrome/green, green/yellow, and yellow. I dress all my metals with custom tied tails. The tails enhance the color profile and give more action. On my all-chrome metals, I change the color profile by simply replacing the tail. My journal entries confirm that metals with tails catch more fish than metals without tails. 😉

A Kastmater, Deadly Dicks, Crippled Herring, and Hopkins each has its own unique shape and weight distribution, which determines how far it casts, sinks, and how it moves through the water column.

Once for ounce, the furthest casting is the Deadly Dicks because it’s thin profile offers the least drag as it moves through the air. Once for ounce, the Kastmaster has the slowest sink rate because of it’s large surface area.

The running depth of a Kastmaster, Deadly Dicks, and Crippled Herring can be controlled by your retrieve speed. A fast retrieve will bring these metals to the top and a slow retrieve will swim these metals down low. When fishing from a sloping shore line, as your metal moves in closer, the height of the water column is reduced, so be sure to pick up your speed as the metal moves in to keep it at the desired depth.

The Kastmaster and Deadly Dicks have an top-to-bottom s-like swimming action. The Cripple Herring has more of a side-to-side swimming action. The Hopkins gives a wounded bait fish falling action as it’s jigged in the lower portion of the water column.

A metal lure costs less than a custom wooden plug. A metal out-casts a wooden plug, in any condition. Metals are more durable than plugs. Metals can fish the entire water column. Heavy metal catch BIG fish. Why are metals not over-utilized by surfcasters?

I have been using a pair of Korker cleats for years. During my last trip to Cuttyhunk Island, I lost a cleat after being knocked off a rock by a wave.  Korker now has boots with studs.  But, my Simms boots still have a lot of steps left in them.  So, I order a set of Grip Studs.

Mounting the #1800 Grip Studs to your boots is easy.  All you need is the stud tool and a power drill.  Before you drill, define a pattern that will distribute your weight evenly across all of the studs.  This will enhance your balance and reduce pressure points.

I field tested my new traction control system on a precarious rock formation that extends far out from a sandy beach.  They grip!  The barnacles, seaweed, and relentless waves were no match!!  I never lost my footing!!!

Grip Studs just work.  It’s that simple.  The unexpected benefit of using Grip Studs instead of Korker cleats is increased fishing time.  All I need to do is tie my boots and I am ready to trek over rocks with sea weed dread locks. 🙂

Inlets condense the water column and flush bait fish from the back bay, salt pond, or river during an outgoing tide. Large predatory fish hence frequent inlets for free meals. That is, meals delivered to them via current for which they expend minimal energy. The most productive way to fish inlets is to cast up current and work the water column as your presentation drifts down current. This repetitive process is a proven and widely exploited method with artificials: plugs, jigs, metals, and plastics. Ironically, not with chunks.

To properly drift a chunk in an inlet, you need a rig that will cast far, drift, and not snag the bottom easily. I have developed a new rig that I call the “Canal Chunking Rig”. This rig uses a Tactical Anglers clip, two Krok 310 lb swivels, 80 lb mono, and a 4, 5, or 6 oz sinker. This rig is not commercially available. Making this rig takes time. But, it’s time well spent. Here is how I make this rig.

1. Tie a 40″ length of 80 lb monofilament to a 175 lb Tactical Anglers clip via improved clinch knot.
2. Tie a 310 lb Krork swivel on the other end of the line to form an end-to-end length of 12″.
3. Tie a 60″ length of 80 lb monofilament to the other end of the 310 lb Krork stainless steel swivel. Be sure to leave a long tag (e.g. 12″ long).
4. Slide an egg sinker (e.g. 4, 5, 6, or 8 oz) through the line and the tag end.
5. Loop the tag end back through the egg sinker and tie two overhand knots on the tag end to secure the egg sinker.
6. Tie a 310 lb Krork stainless steel swivel on the other end of the line to form an end-to-end length of 24″. This will give you a Canal Chunking Rig with a approximate total length of 40″.

I make 4, 5, 6, and 8 oz rigs Canal Chunking Rigs. I pre-rig my chunks on my hooks and slip them on and off the Tactical Anglers power clip. I also re-rig based on the current speed and the depth that I want to drift my chunk at. I tend to bounce my chunk across the bottom. But, when the fish are suspending and not staged behind structure, I will drift chunks throughout the entire water column. Time is fish!

Holding bottom with a castable sinker in an inlet with water moving at 5 knots is impossible. Go with the flow! Cast your chunk rig up-current and fish the drift. The predators are looking for meat. Feed them meat!

Jointed plugs have great action, but poor castability. The innovative multi-jointed design of the Vertebrae Darter has great action and great castability.  Joe Micelli made these once exclusive features possible with his patent-pending internal linkage system.

The Vertebrae Darter has two action profiles. The classic side to side action of a darter and a serpentine action of a swim bait. I have fished this plug from shore and trolled it from a boat. In both applications, the plug swims true. The plug casts like a needlefish and swim like a darter. But, unlike a solid darter, you can feel the plug swim.

The plug is currently available in one size (2 1/4 oz, 6.619 inches) and eight color patterns. The top three colors are: black, yellow, and white. I personally like the green one, which looks wicked as it swims!

The plug is made using a proprietary process that Joe Micelli developed based on his 30 years of experience as a machinist. He only uses quality components in his plugs to achieve a 175 lb dead weight rating:

• Solid Composite Plastic
• 210 lb Wolverine Split Rings
• 510 lb Tsunami Stainless Steel Swivels
• 175 lb Stainless Steel Ball Chains
• 3/0 4X VMC Treble Hooks

The Fish360 Team field tested the Vertebrae Darter on the shores of Cuttyhunk this past June. The plug stood up to the demands of extreme conditions and has hence found a permanent tube in each plug bag of the Fish360 Team.

I first learned of Line Cutterz during a Shark Thank episode. I finally put a ring on my finger at the New England Saltwater Fishing Show this past March.

Unlike a wedding ring, you do not need to size your Line Cutterz ring. The ring has an adjustable Velcro strap, which makes it a one-size-fits-all. This clever design makes the ring versatile: you can mount it on your finger, rod, boat, kayak, canoe, or SUP. The ring is available in several colors. I personally like the hi-visibility pink and the glow-in-dark models. Like a wedding ring, the Line Cutterz ring is TSA approved. Never travel without it.

Structurally speaking, the Line Cutterz ring is made with quality materials: stainless steel blades, stainless steel rivet, and ABS plastic. Functionally speaking, the ring’s patented design has awesome cutting power. I have used my ring to effortlessly cut 80 lb Ande monofilament and 80 lb Power Pro Slick 8 braid.

In engineering, the simplest solution is best. The Line Cutterz ring has no moving parts or power source, which makes it the simplest, safest, and fastest line cutting tool available. I now use my pliers with braid cutting blades to un-hook fish. Time is fish!! 😉

Bucktail jigs (a.k.a. “hair jigs”) catch fish in freshwater and saltwater. In fact, they are exploited by professional anglers when they compete in tournaments. I started tying my own bucktail jigs because I could not find commercial bucktails in the color profiles, sizes, or shapes that I wanted.

You do not need a phD to tie your own bucktail jigs. All you need is some basic tools: vice, scizzors, bobbin, and bobbin threader. I use the Renzettie traveler 2000 cam vice; great vice at a good price. I recommend a sharp pair of scissors like the Dr. Slick’s tungsten carbide scissors.

The materials you will need are:

1. Jig heads
2. Bucktails
3. Hackle Feathers (optional)
4. Flashabou (optional)
5. Uni thread 3/0
6. Epoxy

There are three things to consider when selecting a jig head:

1. Head Geometry
2. Head Material (e.g.: Lead, Tin, Pewter, Tungsten)
3. Hook

The geometry and size of the jig head depends on what structure and depth you are fishing. Each state has its own recreational fishing laws on lead. I fish in different states. So, I keep it simple. I tie non-lead jigs for freshwater and lead jigs for saltwater. I go with strong and bleeding sharp hooks, no exceptions.

Not all bucktails are equal. First, bucktails vary in hair length. I like long haired Bucktails because they allow me to tie long, medium, or short hair gigs. Second, colors vary across manufactures. Kittery Trading Post in Maine carries a great selection of bucktails from various manufactures. I buy some whenever I am in Kittery, if I need then, or not. 😉

For expoy, I use the Loon Outdoors Hard Head. This odorless and non-toxic thick head cement is available in 13 colors. I select the expoxy color based on the thread color. For example, blue pearlescent on black thread for black/blue hair jigs and green pearlescent on black thread for black/chartresuse hair jigs.

There are various thread colors commercially available. I primarily use black and white 3/0 UNI-thread for my jigs. If I cannot find the thread color that I need, then I use white thread and a permanent marker! 😉

Tying your own bucktail jigs can $ave you money. Custom bucktail jigs give you a competitive advantage. More money. More fish. Custom bucktails are are win/win!!!