The most efficient and economical way to spool your reels is by using a 1,500 yard spool. These large spools are challenging to handle. But, with some simple tools and inexpensive materials, you can build a spool jig.

Materials

• 5/8″ Diameter Wooden Rod
• 2 1 1/2″ Finish Nails
• 6 2 1/2″ Screws
• 1″ PVC Pipe (with a 5/8″ Inner Diameter)
• 2′ 2″ x 8″ Stock
• 2 5/8″ Rubber Hose Washers

Tools

• Power Drill
• 1/8″ Drill Bit
• 5/8″ Spade Bit
• Mitre Saw
• Hammer

Cut a 7″ length from the 2″ x 8″ stock. This will be the base. Cut two 6″ lengths from 2″ x 8″ stock. These will be the sides. Measure and mark the center lines on one end of each side. Measure 1/2″ down from the top of each side’s center line and make a perpendicular mark. Drill a 5/8″ hole at each of these two cross marks. These holes will be for the 5/8″ wooden rod that the spool will rotate on.

Standup the two sides against the base. Pass the 5/8″ wooden rod through the two holes until the end of the rod is flush with the far side. Mark and cut the rod to length.

Center the spool onto the rod. Insert a 5/8″ rubber hose washer onto each end of rod until they are flush with the spool. Measure and cut two lengths from the 1″ PVC pipe such that they push against the rubber hose washers and the inner sides of the jig. To calculate this length, add the width of the spool and the thickness of the two rubber hose washers. Subtract this total length from the length between both sides and divide the result by two. Insert the two PVC lengths onto each end of the rod. These PVC segments will keep pressure on the washers as the spool rotates.

Insert each side onto each end of the rod. Drill a 1/16″ hold through the center of the rod from the top of each side. Drive a 1 1/2″ finish nail though each hole. This will secure the rod to the sides and keep it from rotating.

Secure the bottom to the sides using 2″ screws. Be sure to pre-drill using a 1/8″ drill bit.

There are commercial line winders available. But, given the high performance of my low cost DIY spool jigs, I am not in a hurry to buy one. 😉

Transporting a kayak from your vehicle to the water’s edge can be aggressively done by grabbing the handles at mid-boat and heaving the kayak up and over your head. But, then you have to come back for your gear. If parking for the access site is 1/4 mile away, then multiple trips back and forth is lost time fishing. With some inexpensive materials and basic tools you can easily build a proper kayak cart to transport your SOT kayak and gear safely and efficiently all at the same time.

MATERIALS

• 6 feet of of 3/4″ SCH 40 PVC Pipe
• 4 3/4″ PVC T fittings
• 2 wheels (e.g. 3.00 x 4 Wheel)
• 1 24″ long x 1/2″ Diameter Aluminum Rod
• 4 1/2″ x 2″ Stainless Steel Washers
• 2 1/8″ x 1 1/4″ Cotter Pins
• 8 oz of PVC Primer
• 8 oz of PVC Cement

TOOLS

• Power miter saw
• Power Drill
• 1/8″ Drill Bit
• Channel Lock Plyers
• Hack Saw
• Tape Measure
• Fine point permanent marker
• Safety Glasses

Before you start cutting PVC, the fist thing to do is get your axle ready. Solid 1/2″ diameter aluminum rods are available at Home Depot and Lowes in 3 foot lengths. Using a hack saw, cut the 1/2″ diameter aluminum rod to 24″ inches. Measure 3/8″ from each end and drill a 1/8″ hole using a power drill.

These holes will be for the cotter pins that will keep the wheels from rotating off the axle.

The first measurement to determine is the length of the segments that will go through the scupper holes (i.e. “A”). Flip you kayak over so that the bottom is facing up. Place a segment of PVC across the hull just below the scupper holes that the cart will use. Measure the length from the top of the scupper hole to the top of the PVC pipe traversing the kayak. Add 3″ to this measurement. Cut two PVC segments at this length.

The second measurement to determine is the length of the PVC cross members (i.e. “B”). Insert the two “A” segments into the tops of two T fittings. Insert these units into the scupper holes so that he middle holes of the T fittings are facing each other. Measure the distance between the two T fittings. Add 1 1/2″ to this measurement (3/4″ for each fitting). Cut two segments at this length.

Insert one “B” segment into the center holes of the two T fittings with the “A” segments. This is the upper part of the cart.

Insert one “B” segment into the ends of the other two T fittings. This is the lower part of the cart.

The third measurement to determine is the length between the two segments that will join the upper and lower parts of the cart (i.e. “C”). Insert the upper unit into the two scupper holes. Insert the aluminum axle through the lower part of the cart and temporarily mount the wheels. Place this assembled lower unit above the scupper hole using 3″ spacers underneath each wheel. Measure the distance between the two T fittings. Add 1 1/2″ to this measurement (3/4″ for each fitting). Cut two segments at this length.

Connect the the upper and lower parts of the cart via “C” segments. Insert the cart into the scupper holes.

The fourth measurement to determine is the length of the segment that will keep the wheels at the expected distance (i.e. “D”). The simplest way to calculate this measurement is to push the axle to one side. Measure the length of exposed axle. Divide this length by two and add 3/4″ to account for each respective T fitting. Cut two segments at this length.

Remove the wheels and the axle. Insert the two “D” segments into the ends of the T fittings. Re-insert the axle and re-mount the wheels temporarily. Insert the cart into the scupper holes.

Triple check the assembled cart and make adjustments as needed. Break down the cart. Prime and glue all the connections.

There are some some generic SOT kayak carts on the market. I am sure they work fine. But, I personally prefer to build a custom SOT kayak cart for 1/3 of the cost. Did I mention I have a fleet of kayaks? 😉