I started out surfcasting by propelling fresh chunks of bait into an agitated surf on Plum Island.  This is still one of my favorite methods when hunting for large saltwater species. Unfortunately, access restrictions makes it painful to transport my chunking gear to and from my hot spots. I do not like pain.  So I purchased a Fish-N-Mate.  Over the years I have made a few modifications.

Lanyards, Stand, & Grips
One dark night on a remote beach, I nearly lost one of the stock pins.  The stock stand is still M.I.A.  I now use lanyards to secure the pins for the handle and my custom stand.

I would recommend pushing the stock stand all the way up into the chassis tube and drill a second hole through the stand using the pin hole as a guide.  You can use this second hole to secure the stand while you are pulling the Fish-N-Mate; this will keep your heels hitting the stand with each stride.

I replaced the stock grips with bicycle grips because they provide a better grip when I am pulling my Fish-N-Mate up a rockpile or set of stairs.

Axel and Wheels
The stock axle and wheels perform well over sand.  But, limited my access.  So, I upgraded to a wider axle and bigger wheels.  The wider axle gives more stability, especially when I am on angled slopes or un-even surfaces.  The bigger wheels provides more ground clearance and “roll” better over sand, dirt, gravel, pavement, stairs, and rocks because of the larger contact patch.

Bait Station
After dressing my bleeding sharp hooks with fresh bait, I like to clean my hands.  The best thing that I found is baby wipes.  They are inexpensive and they work!  I modified the stock bait station with a larger cutting board with a cut out for a bay wipes box.

I cut off the bottom of the stock plastic basket and now use it to secure a small plastic bag.  I leave only foot prints and tire tracks behind. I secure the basket via lanyard.

The stock cutting board has a slit for a bait knife.  This can be dangerous because the sharp blade is fully exposed below the cutting board’s surface.  Using a drill, I bored out a horizontal slot through the aluminum cross bar that is welded to the 1.5” round aluminum tube.  This slot allows me to store my bait knife inside the tube.  I also secure my bait knife via lanyard.

After 8+ years and many miles, I am proud to say that my modified  Fish-N-Mate has never broken down.  And my back is all the better because of it. ;-).

On a new moon night I was wading through a back bay is search of a rock to perch on, when the buckle of my surf belt went POP!  Luckily, I still have rapid reflexes and was able to grab my belt before my two plug bags, plugs, pliers, knife, lip gripper/scale, and camera became artifacts in Davy Jones Locker. The brand of the belt shall remain nameless.

When I got home that night, the surf belt went into the rubbish and I went online to order a new surf belt.  After a comparative analysis of several belts, I ordered the MAK Surfcasting surf belt.

In order to take off the belt, you must press the two side knobs and the middle button on the buckle at the same time and then separate the two ends of the belt, which are held together via industrial strength velcro.   I field tested this triple locking system while moving heavy furniture. The belt never opened under load and it actually gave me some back support.  Impressive!

I really the belt’s stiffness.  The belt naturally forms a circle; to go against this natural form requires an un-natural amount of force.  This belt is also incredibly strong.  I have not performed an scientific experiment to measure it’s strength; but, if I had to “hang on for dear life”, I would want would to be holding onto a MAK surf belt!

I used the belt recently on a commando trip to Block Island, RI and it exceeded my expectations.  From Drakes Island, ME to the Other Banks, NC, this is my belt of choice.  At $39.99 USD, this belt is good insurance for $800.00+ of gear.

On my first fishing trip to Cuttyhunk Island I used a light that clipped onto the visor of my hat.  The light had three green blubs.  The first night that I turned the light on, I was on a remote part of the island under a black sky.  Those three little green bulbs were so bright, that boats must have mistaken them for a light house!  I did not catch any fish that night.  The next day, a friend from S-B showed me the light, pardon the pun.  I now use a neck light:

The main advance to using a neck light is stealth.  The light is always pointing down and not towards the water, which spooks fish.  The mouth piece helps me to hold the flashlight so I can un-hook a fish or change my presentation without hooking myself.  The mouth piece also helps me to direct the light beam, which is more difficult to do with my hat light (or head lamp).

I build my neck lights using quality materials that are inexpensive and easily accessible:

1. Princeton Tec Rage flash light
2. Athletic mouth piece
3. 1/4” Vinyl tubing
4. Electrical tape
5. Red permanent marker

To build your own neck light:

1. Secure the mouth piece to the flash light:

2. Measure and cut a section of vinyl tubing such that the Princeton Tec flash light will hang mid-chest (e.g. 38”).  Then secure the two ends of the vinyl tubing to the sides of the flashlight via electrical tape:

3. Color the plastic lens of the Precision Tec flash light using a red permanent marker.  Alternatively, you can purchase a red lens cap or red bulb, but I have found this technique to work equally well.

During the 2010 Plum Island Surfcasters fishing show, DJ Muller delivered an awesome presentation on wetsuiting.  He first spoke of the advantages of wetsuiting as a method for targeting stripped bass, and then moved onto gear and safety.  I have since lost the notes that I took during the show.  So, I now use the Wetsuit Corner on DJ’s website— which has some great information on wetsuiting:

1. The “Wetsuit Checklist” lists all the key gear items with live links.
2. The “The Wetsuit Option” article that speaks to the advantages of wetsuiting.
3. The “Wetsuit Dress and Equipment” article discusses the critical gear needed for successful wetsuiting.

An additional resource is “Wetsuiting The Outer Edge with DJ Muller“, a video produced by The Saltwater Edge.

A wetsuit will help you get out where the fish are.  DJ’s wetsuiting tips will help you land the fish and reach terra firma safely.

I was at a fishing show this past winter when my peripheral vision caught metal lip plugs swimming in a hypnotic trance.  I turned my rudder and full throttled over to the Lemire’s Plugworks table.

The three plugs that hooked my attention were the Goo Goo Eye Swimmer, the Prowler, and the Prowler GT.  I like the profiles and their swimming action of these plugs.

Each year I fish alone under the cover of darkness to intercept hungry striped bass as migrate north and south.  I enjoy the solitude.  But, this year, I am fishing with the three amigos!

I was wading through the Internet recently when I bumped into an article called “Metal Lip Tuning Tips” by Dave Anderson on the fifth issue of Surfcasters Jounal.  I had to read the article from start to finish right then and there.  Why?   Because!  One, I love fishing metal lip plugs.  Two, it was written by Dave Anderson, the outdoor writer and lure builder.

In his article, Dave Anderson goes far beyond the “how to make a metal lip plug swim higher or lower in the water column” discussion.  From nail polish to securing egg sinkers to the bellies of metal lips, Dave Anderson leaves nothing out.  The article has more tips on tuning metal lip plugs than any other article or book I have read— and I am well read!  ;-).

I have read several of Dave Anderson’s articles in print.  I am glad his writing style and story telling skill remains unchanged online.